All Systems Go

Besides the rice bowls, ramen and boba (Taiwanese bubble tea) drinks, there are snacks from seven different countries, including Japan, China, Malaysia and the Philippines. A cold case houses mochi, macaroons and rare sweets like Hokkaido milk bread Chotabtim sources from a local specialty baker. And the walls are lined with anime, Disney and Pokémon collectibles.

“The space became open, and my partner [Go Sushi’s Jarunee Krathinthong] asked if I wanted to do a boba place – but I wanted to do more than that,” Chotabtim said. “I wanted to bring back the ‘90s in a fun way.”

That idea is now backed by the colorful decor, the vibe and the way it leaves its customers. “The concept is very trendy,” he said. “There’s nothing like it in Flag. And now people don’t have to travel to Phoenix or Las Vegas.”

With its proximity to Northern Arizona University, customers in the know can stop by for Boba, a gift, a snack or inexpensive eats like Ramen, rice bowls or even burgers. Or they can walk across the street to Go Sushi for the main course. 

Originally from Thailand, Chotabtim grew up in the San Fernando Valley. He’s worked in some 15 restaurants and even studied culinary arts in San Francisco to learn knife skills and network. Yet it was in Saratoga that he found himself working for a true Sensei at the Michelin Guide-listed restaurant Hachi Ju Hachi. There, Chotabtim learned the art of sushi-making, discovered his motivation for creativity and left with lessons he carries still.

“I was cocky,” he said with a laugh. “A lot of sushi chefs don’t let you move up. If you’re making California rolls, you’re doing that for years. My Master was not like that. He would get mad if you didn’t ask questions.” From Chef Suzuki, Chotabtim learned to be patient, to take criticism and above all, to listen.

“An egotistical chef will never grow,” Chotabtim said. “If you’re comfortable, you have to move up to the next level. You have to evolve, adjust and listen to the customer. I would rather take less profit and make you smile.”

He also learned that someday, he wanted to have a successful restaurant of his own. 

Chotabtim landed in Flagstaff in 2017, accepting the invitation of a friend at the popular Pato Thai Cuisine restaurant, to run an add-on sushi bar. It was a hit and he worked out his own take on modern Japanese cuisine. After another opportunity fell through, he and his partner opened Go Sushi, then struggled for the next four-and-a-half years.

They were just getting their footing when the pandemic hit, slimming the staff from nine to two. Like other small business owners, they adapted to curbside takeout and discovered an unlikely blessing in disguise.

While diners were searching for places still open, they found Go Sushi. Through word of mouth, the restaurant’s reputation grew. And now, Go Sushi is able to offer a wide menu of raw and cooked dishes – sashimi, rolls, Te Maki (hand rolls) and Nigiri, as well as noodles, Bento and Thai.

Thus, the front of house is coming together as an izakaya (literally, “stay-drink-place”) where late-night customers can imbibe and order yakitori skewers and bar snacks. Chotabtim is able to mentor Executive Chef Ivan Hernandez while focusing on RiceThings and plotting to, one day, open a full-on izakaya. He’s following his dream with perseverance and patience.

“You just have to hang in there and believe,” Chotabtim said. “Take care of staff first. Dishwashers become sushi chefs. The pawn can be as important as the general.”

Meanwhile, RiceThings Manager New Boonphow is building its social media presence and boosting RiceThings’ rise. And Chotabtim is moving forward with all systems go. FBN

By Billy Miller, FBN

Courtesy Photo: Go Sushi’s signature roll, Amazing Kiss, is a sweet, savory loaded soft shell crab and tuna roll, colorfully presented on a wood platter.